Equipment
* optional
Ingredients
Meat and Produce
- 1000 g veal shoulder, cut into 4cm pieces
- 300 g fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced
- 1 yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 carrot, finely diced
- 1 fennel bulb, cored and finely diced
- 4 garlic, minced
Liquids and Seasonings
- 45 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 50 g tomato paste
- 250 ml dry red wine
- 500 ml beef stock
- 5 g fresh thyme, tied in a bundle with kitchen twine
- 2 bay leaves, dried
- kosher salt
- black pepper, freshly ground
Nutrition (per serving)
Method
Pat the pieces of veal shoulder completely dry with paper towels. Season generously on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Place a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and allow it to heat until shimmering but not smoking.
Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, sear the veal until deeply browned on all sides. Transfer the browned meat to a plate and set aside. Ensure the internal temperature reaches at least 74 Celsius or 165 Fahrenheit by the end of the cooking process.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the diced onion, carrot, and fennel to the fat remaining in the pot. Cook until the vegetables have softened and the onion is translucent.
Stir in the sliced shiitake mushrooms. Continue to cook until the mushrooms release their moisture and begin to take on a caramelized color.
Add the minced garlic and tomato paste to the pot. Stir constantly, cooking until the tomato paste darkens from bright red to a deep rust color.
Pour in the dry red wine to deglaze the pot. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits stuck to the bottom. Let the wine simmer vigorously until it has reduced by half.
Return the browned veal and any accumulated resting juices to the pot. Add the beef stock, thyme bundle, and bay leaves. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Cover with a lid and cook gently for 2 hours.
Remove the lid from the Dutch oven. Increase the heat slightly to maintain a gentle bubble, and let the ragout reduce uncovered for 15 minutes to thicken the sauce into a rich glaze.
Fish out and discard the thyme bundle and bay leaves. Taste the ragout and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and black pepper as needed before serving.
Chef's Notes
- Searing the meat in batches is paramount. If you overcrowd the pan, the meat will steam in its own juices rather than developing the Maillard reaction that builds the foundational flavor of a ragout.
- Shiitake mushrooms contain high levels of guanylate, a compound that works synergistically with the glutamate found in tomato paste and veal to profoundly multiply the umami profile of the dish.
- When braising, the bubbles should break the surface of the liquid only occasionally. A rolling boil will invariably produce tough, stringy meat rather than the unctuous, spoon-tender texture you want.
- If you have the time, making this ragout a day ahead allows the complex flavors of the wine, fennel, and mushrooms to meld completely, resulting in a significantly superior dish when reheated.
Storage
Refrigerator: 4 days — Store in an airtight container. The flavors will deepen and improve after a day in the refrigerator.
Freezer: 3 months — Freeze in portions for easier thawing.
Reheating: Gently reheat on the stovetop over low heat, adding a splash of water or beef stock to loosen the sauce if it has overly thickened.
